Gildo Zegna: “Creating a large Italian luxury group is mission impossible today”
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The future of the family conglomerate, Dubai's place in the fashion world, competition from luxury groups... An unfiltered interview with the CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna, which owns, in addition to the spinner brand, Thom Browne and Tom Ford's fashion businesses.
Founded in 1910 in Trivero, the cradle of Italian spinners, located about 100 kilometers from Milan, the Ermenegildo Zegna group is thriving. Under the leadership of Gildo Zegna, the founder's grandson, the company has not only significantly expanded its brand, but also acquired Thom Browne (in 2018) and the fashion business of Tom Ford (in 2023). Such an expansion that it opted for an IPO in New York in 2021. How do you grow an exclusively menswear house and a family conglomerate without distorting its nature, resolve the thorny issue of succession, establish a foothold in dynamic markets, and create an Italian luxury group? As Zegna held its Spring/Summer 2026 fashion show in Dubai, we met with a business leader who doesn't mince his words.
LE FIGARO. - You have traditionally presented Zegna collections in Milan. Why Dubai this season?
Gildo Zegna. - My family has a reputation as pioneers. The Middle East is a market...
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